[Remember to enter the current free contest for 7 nights at the Fairmont Orchid.... just go to this Blog article and post your comment at the end]
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This blog post was kindly provided to us by John and Mark Stephens of Denver, CO.
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A few days ago, we had another chat with a handsome (and large) Hawaiian Monk Seal on the beach in Poipu. We have been very lucky on this trip to see this big boy and his female companion almost every day. Early every morning, we usually walk from the condo at Poipu Kai Resort to the Starbucks on Poipu road. We go along the road by Brennecke's beach and for the past few days have been so lucky and happy to see seals on the beach.
Today, which was rainy in the morning, "Mr" Seal decided to bury his entire face into the sand. It seems to be a very common behaviou. Why? I have no idea but I imagine it was to keep out the rain as he slept.

On a previous trip, we saw the female on the beach and frankly, we were alarmed. We thought she had been wounded with a large black hole in her back... see photo below. It was painful to see.

We managed to get hold of the life guard who called the Oceanographic specialists. They came down and looked at her and thankfully determined that she had pulled off her tracker and
what we were seeing was the black glue that had stuck it to her back. What a relief.
A good website that has great information on the Hawaiian Monk Seal is the Kaua'i Monk Seal Watch Program. As they point out on that site, "Hawaiian Monk Seals, (Monachus schauinslandi), are among the most endangered creatures on earth. They are one of only two mammals endemic to Hawai`i, the second being a species of bat.... For approximately 35-40 seals, the waters and beaches of Kaua`i are home." Mr and Mrs Seal are one of the very few that live in Kauai. The website has a lot of information about their History, Location, Reproduction, Endangered Status, the Pups, Feeding Habits, Lifespan, the Effect of Humans, etc.
Thanks Great Hawaii Vacations for setting up this wonderful vacation and we hope your readers get to see some seals soon. They are remarkable travelers on this planet.
John and Mark Stephens, Denver, CO.
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If you have a story to tell us about your vacation, drop us an email with attached photos and we will be happy to post it.
Mahalo.
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[Remember to enter the contest to win 7 free nights in Waikiki Just provide a comment on the previous post... Good luck!]
On our way to Waimea Canyon...
Toward the end of our trip to Kauai, after an early breakfast
buffet surrounded by the tropical gardens, water falls and streams, at the beautiful Grand Hyatt Kaui Resort, we head out for Waimea Canyon.
We go West from Poipu, pass Port Allen, and drive down to Salt Pond Beach Park. Here is the only natural salt pond in the state of Hawaii that is still used today by descendents of ancient Hawaiians to make sea salt. Do not enter the salt-making area without permission. Even so, the beach is available to the public. The beach is a calm one for almost all of the year. The beach and the cove is protected by outcroppings of reef. Snorkeling is quite good here and it
should be a must-visit for travelers going West on Kauai.
Next we stop in Hanapepe Town and enjoy a long walk along the main street. The residents consider this the "art capital" of Kauai. As we continue on, we pass the Russian Fort Elizabeth State Park where, in 1815, Russian agents for the Russian Fur Trading company tried to establish an outpost as their initial attempts to control Hawaii. Their primary source of wealth was the fur of the Monk Seal. They eventually left Hawaii, frustrated by the hostility of the local population and a significant decline in Hawaiian Monk Seals.
We push on to the town of Waimea, the site of Captain Cook's monument which is found on the roadside in Hofgaard Park (also known as Tamago -- egg-shaped -- Park). The monument marks the site where British Captain James Cook first landed in Hawaii in 1778. Most visitors do not know that Cook was the first westerner to discover the islands and that he did so in Waimea, Kauai, traveling on his ships the Resolution and Discovery.
The sights begin...
Now, we turn North and wind our way up the Waimea Canyon
Road. The road curls along the west side of the canyon, which gets deeper and more impressive every minute of our drive. From the town of Waimea to the end of the road is about 20 miles, so plan on a couple of hours to drive and see the canyon.
On the way up, there are a couple lookout spots that offer increasingly-impressive views of the canyon itself, its red, yellow and green walls, and its waterfalls. Without doubt this is the most impressive natural attraction in Kauai.
The canyon is up to 3,500 feet deep, a mile wide, and was described by Mark Twain as "The Grand Canyon of the Pacific." The canyon was formed not only by the steady process of erosion, but also by a catastrophic collapse of the volcano that created Kauaʻi. The Waimea river that helped form the canyon is fed by the excessive rainfall at its headwaters in the Kauai mountain ranges and its central peak, Mount Waiʻaleʻale (the wettest place on earth).
The end of the road...
We get to Kokee State Park. What
wonders are to be found here! The park is set in 4,300 acres of rain forest at over 3,600 feet high. It is full of native plants like Mokihana berry tree, Ohia, Lehua Trees, Iliau as well as imports from Australia (Eucalyptus) and California (coastal Redwood). The park also has pigs, goats and deer, descendants of the animals released by the British and American sailors so they would have food when they came back to the islands on subsequent trips. With no natural enemies, these animals have thrived on Kauai.

Love hiking? Kokee State Park is the place to visit. We do not do any hiking today but we know that the park has over 45 miles of well-maintained trails that provide some of the best hikes in all of Hawaii. Among one the more famous is the Alakai Swamp Trail that takes you through 7 miles with incredible views and through the clouds that roll in and out. The "swamp" is part of the Alakaʻi Wilderness Preserve, and is technically not a swamp but an alpine bog. The trail is off the Mohihi Road near the Alakai picnic area.
We end up at the Kalalau Lookout - the ultimate in scenic Kauai
. It is my guess that more photos are taken here than at any other place in Kauai. We stand, quiet and relaxed, gazing at the Kalalau Valley 4,000 feet below. It is the largest valley on the Napali Coast. Surrounded by its high mountains and full of lush green jungle it is not a sight we will easily forget. Many native Hawaiians lived in the valley for centuries and into the 20th century, farming taro from a vast complex
of terraced fields. Today, its designation as a state park forbids any one from residing there.
The view from the lookout changes minute to minute depending on the ever-present clouds. If the clouds are coming from inland, they usually disappear quickly. However, if there is a cloud bank moving in from the ocean, it usually lasts for most of the day.
The temperature at the lookout is
always cool, so bring something warm to wear or hug your neighbor a lot while you are at the lookout. (I opted for the latter since I forgot to bring a sweater... who brings a sweater to Hawaii????)
There are several trails that lead down from the lookout into the valley below and the surrounding areas. The Kalalau Trail, is an 11-mile hike down steep seacliffs, through waterfalls and to the ocean. The Kalalau Trail is one of the most popular in the world but it is not for the faint-of-heart and the walk back up is demanding.
Back down the road...
As we head back , we stop at Kokee Lodge for a wonderful meal. This stop has the Kokee Museum, a gift shop, and a well maintained campground. It also has a large population of the famous wild Kauai chickens. They are persistent, demanding and daring when it comes to getting food as our friend discover when we take our sandwiches and drinks to one of the benches in the campground...

Back home.
We enjoy a leisurely drive back to our base in Poipu thankful that we have the chance to be in "paradise" again. What a pleasant day - relaxing, enjoyable, entertaining, and educational!
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[make your comments at the end of this post... mahalo]
One day, we decide to drive North from Poipu. Princeville here we come - though with many stops on the way and that might take a while.
We drive past the closed sugar cane factory outside Lihue and get
back on Hwy 50. Without knowing it, we also drive just West of the Waita Reservoir, home of the famous PEACOCK BASS, one of the top best fighting, freshwater fish in the world. As the Sport fishing in Hawaii website says, "Aerial acrobatics, guile and cunning, the Peacock Bass is an intelligent, powerful, and worthy opponent of even the most accomplished tournament bass angler…..and you don’t need a passport or have to worry about the water to do it!"
We pass beautiful Eucalyptus tree groves and the two-lane road is shaded by the branches of a double row of towering eucalyptus trees, also called swamp mahogany. They grow into a dense, green Gothic arch. Alexander McBryde directed the planting of the nearly mile-long grove of trees in 1911 as a community project. (Tree Tunnel in the last post)
We take the 58 Hwy toward Nawiliwili Harbor which hosts the
beautiful Kauai Marriott on the North side and stately cruise ships as their port-of-call. It is located at the mouth of the Hule'ia Stream which creates a natural channel for the large ships. This harbor and nearby Niumalu Beach Park were pictured in the movie Raiders of the Lost Ark. We drive into the Kauai Marriott Resort and Beach Club and have a wonderful buffet breakfast before getting back on the road.
Lihue is expanding fast and one of first signs of that is when we notice is the large shopping complex including Kukui Grove which houses K Mart, Macys, Sears, Meyvns and many, many, more stores. The center is also across the street from Costco and Home Depot and down the road from Wall-mart. Now, it seems, the retail mainland has arrived in Kauai. The good news is you can now buy anything you need in Lihue.
We cut back toward the Airport to connect with Hwy 51 North and
take the Ahukini Road out to the point. There we see AHUKINI LANDING, overlooking Kauai's original deepwater port. The pier was once an old ship's landing. It was from here that the many sugar plantations, that were once so prevalent on Kauai, loaded their shipments to the mainland. At one point it was the only location where large vessels could dock on Kauai. After World War II, a better harbor was constructed at Nawiliwili Bay where the cruise ships now dock. The old Ahukini Pier was abandoned and mostly dismantled in 1978. Few tourists visit here so it is a treat.
We get back on 56 and go North along the coast. Our next stop
is at the Wailua Golf Course. Who can resist a round at one of the best community courses in Hawaii and very reasonably priced also? It was first built as a 9-hole golf course in the 1930’s. The second 9 holes was added in 1961. Course designer was Toyo Shirai. Wailua GC hosted 3 USGA Amateur Public Links Championships and is voted by Golf Digest as one of Hawaii’s best 15 golf courses. We got around the course quickly (just over 4 hours) and I shot a reasonable 84. Now we head out Northward again.
We again veer off the Princeville course once again to see Wailua Falls. The
pounding water and its sound are so relaxing. We cannot get very close to the falls this way, so we decide to come back another day to enjoy the Wailua river, the famous Fern Grotto, and the Kamokila Hawaiian Village from a river cruise.
The Kamokila Hawaiian Village is a historical site of an authentic Hawaiian village and it is good to see it by a tour boat. The Kamokila Hawaiian Village is snuggled by the world renown FERN GROTTO, SECRET FALLS and the OPAEKA‘A WATERFALL, on the Wailua River. They have found artifacts that include medicine rocks, birthing stones, bell stones, foundations of houses and petroglyphs. It was first restored in 1979. In past times, this spot was ideal for a fishing village. Men would use their canoes to fish in the river and ocean. The mountains, and valleys around supplied essentials like wood and food for their perfect village.
When we do the Wailua river tour we will also see the ULU’WEHI
Falls, more commonly known as the “SECRET FALLS”, is located on the North fork of the Wailua River and can be accessed via a short hike. The Waterfall was said to be the bathing site of the Ali’i (KING) of the Island. At approximately 120 ft. high, the Secret Falls is a sight and the perfect backdrop for a picnic, photo shoot, and lot’s of fun. There is a pool at the base of the Waterfall that offers a tranquil setting, and a soothing environment.
When we check our watches, we now realize we have been enjoying ourselves too much and cannot get to Princeville in time to see the sunset. So, it's back to Poipu and a wonderful dinner at Merriman's. Maybe we should make a tee time at the Princeville golf course for tomorrrow. That would ensure we make it all the way North without any distractions. Hmmmm...
More on our trip up the East coast of Kauai in our next post.
Mahalo
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[you may comment at the end of the post]
KAUAI the oldest inhabited Hawaiian island, and it is believed the volcano that created Kauai first began erupting some 10 million years ago. It is nicknamed "the Garden Isle" for its lush tropical forests and it's wonderful sandy beaches. It also has another name, "The Separate Kingdom" since it was never conquered by any other Hawaiian tribe or King. The earliest Polynesians lived along Na Pali coast and left behind evidence of their existence dating from as early as 200 A.D. These artifacts, combined with its distance from the rest of the island chain, may be why Kauai was earlier proclaimed The Separate Kingdom with a royal bloodline that was considered the purest in the Islands.

Our tour began when we landed in the capital, Lihue and went South to the POIPU resort area. In other posts we will describe the East and North Shore resort areas as well as our great visit to the Napali Coast.
LIHUE has a beautiful airport that is clean and efficient. It is a short walk to the rental car pick up and getting our car was easy and quick. Lihue is growing and the roads out of town (Hwy 570 andthen Hwy 50) toward the South were busy. Also, they are doing some construction to widen the roads and that does slow traffic down a bit. But, even so, it only took about 20 minutes to be in POIPU resort area.
If you have rented a car in Kauai, then the first thing every
visitor should know is STAY UNDER THE SPEED LIMIT. Over the last couple of years, the police in Kauai have become very strict and issue speeding tickets very quickly. Additionally, the speed limits change quickly usually from 45 to 25 mph and if you are not aware of where they change, you might be caught.
As we go South to Poipu, we first pass through the Tree Tunnel part of the road. It gives us a taste of the tranquil and lush nature of Kauai. You can't help but slow down to take in that beautiful part of the road.
Next, we enter Koloa town, with its Koloa History Center with artifacts from the early plantation days in Kauai. At the center you can get free trail maps of trails throughout the area. The town itself has some wonderful, quaint restaurants that offer reasonably priced variety of refreshment and food. Try theDali Deli and Café for decent sandwiches at realistic prices. Tomkats Grille serves burgers and wonderful salads, and has a kids' menu. To experience local cuisine, visit the Koloa Fish Market for reasonably-priced Hawaiian dishes.
Koloa was the first of the sugar plantation towns in Hawaii to be established when the land was leased out in 1835. The ruins of an old sugar mill can still be seen to the east of the Koloa-Poipu Bypass. Here you will find a brief history of the sugar industry.
Sugar plantations were the main source of income on Hawaii for almost a century until recently when it was found that cheap labour in developing countries made it too hard for Hawaii sugarcane planters to compete. In their heyday, the sugar plantations dominated the islander's lives. The plantation workers and their families would live on the plantations; their non-work life as well as their work life happened on the plantation. Dances and other social events would be organized through these communities. Sugar plantation tours are run for those interested in learning more about how the islanders lived during the height of the sugar industry on Hawaii. The brightly-coloured sugar shanties, ancient Texaco garage and old general store can still be seen in Koloa for a taste of life in the plantation days as well as an excellent bronze statue depicting the various types of people on the planatation. The monument is about 7 feet tall and has representations of the people on the plantations: Native Hawaiian (on left), European, Japanese, Filipino, and Chinese. Really well done.

POIPU itself is by the ocean on the South side of Kauai. That is the dry side of the island and that is saying a lot, since Kauai has Waialeale - the wettest spot on the planet earth with over 450 inches of rainfall a year. But more about that later. At a bend in the road on the Poipu-Koloa bypass, we see the resort lying sleepily beside the blue ocean. We are home for a couple of weeks.
POIPU resort area has exceptional accommodations to suit every traveler. Great Hawaii Vacations provides every variety of condo and two of the islands best hotel/resorts the SHERATON KAUAI and the GRAND HYATT KAUAI RESORT AND SPA. For the first few days of our visit, we stayed Poipu Kai, a very nice collection of multi-level condos on the Eastern end of Poipu. From our condo lanai we looked out over shipwreck beach and began our relaxation by listening to the ocean greet the shore.
That afternoon, we walked to Brenneckes Beach to watch the turtles feed on some nearby rocks. So many of them we could not count. As we strolled along the shore, we got to Poipu Beach Park with its wide lawns, tables and chairs, and its world-class beach. We were pleasantly surprised to see a monk seal sunning herself on the beach and we greeted her like old friends. They are so peaceful and relaxed.
Then we saw a crazed tourist approach and disturb her. She repeatedly got in the seal's way, talking loudly and clicking photos. Eventually, and regrettably, the seal was forced to leave. We need to be conscious of our affect on the wildlife.


Hopefully, after our "talk", this tourist will be a bit more considerate of resting monk seals on Hawaii beaches.
We took a refreshing dip at Poipu Beach, visited Brenneckes
Restaurant near the beach to enjoy a couple of Hawaiian beverages, and then strolled home.
Poipu is not long or large. From Shipwreck beach on the Eastern end to Sprouting Horn Park on the Western side is about 3 miles. Most of the accommodation is on the Eastern half of the stretch and everything we needed was in walking distance.
In the mornings we walked to Starbucks for our Chai, checked our email for free (yes we never did kick that addiction) , and got some groceries and nearby stores. Then we usually walked back via Kiahuna Beach (in front of the Sheraton Kauai and the Outrigger Kiahuna Plantation), then along Poipu Beach to Makakuena Point which is surrounded by Poipu Kai, Poipu Shores, Poipu Sands and other condominium complexes and then through the beautiful grounds of the Grand Hyatt Kauai Resort.
During our stay, we visited Allerton Garden & McBryde Garden -
part of the National Tropical and Botanical Garden. This garden provides a home for a wide collection of rare and endangered plants, hundreds of varieties of flowers, and some of the best examples of tropical fruit trees. Beside the garden is the 1860's home of Queen Emma with formal gardens, streams and fountains. This is a must see when visiting Poipu.
Across the road is the Poipu Sprouting Horn where big waves funnel through an old lava tube and the water comes shooting out with a loud moan. Hawaiian legend is that the sound is made from a great people-eating lizard - "Mo'o".

For those of you who love to dive or snorkle, the Poipu Resort
Area Koloa Landing and Kolopa Beach are on the Western end of Poipu. These are near the Prince Kuhio Resort and Kuhio Shores condo. Nearby is the famous Beach House Restaurant.
Throughout our visit, we were treated to some of the most beautiful sunsets. I caught this one, with a couple and a breaking wave.

In our next blog post we will visit other areas of Kauai.
Send your Kauai Poipu stories along as a comment to this post.
Mahalo
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About The Sheraton Kauai Resort
Located on Poipu Beach, the Sheraton Kauai Resort is a dream location for beach lovers. |
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About the Hawaii Blog
Our blog provides content about Hawaii and vacations to Hawaii.
For over 20 years we have enjoyed Hawaii and we know most every aspect of traveling to and vacationing in Hawaii.
Sometimes, we can tell when the sand moved on a beach or a tree has fallen... we are that good.
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